How to Assemble a Pair of Trousers / Shorts with a Fly Zipper and Pockets

Here are a few steps on how to sew together  a pair of shorts or trousers with a front fly zipper and pockets.  In this pattern I am assembling a pair of boys shorts. Keep in mind that for a ladies’ pair you’d sew the fly facing and shield on the opposite sides as you would for men’s.

  1. After cutting all pattern pieces, press and interface all the areas that require reinforcement on the wrong side of fabric.  For these shorts, I have interfaced the Waistband,  Fly Facing, Fly Shield and the Pocket openings of front pieces.
    interface
  2. If using fabric that frays easily finish the edges on all pattern pieces with a serger or a zigzag stitch.
    POCKETS
  3. Line up the Pocket Lining and Pocket with right sides together and stitch along curvy side only.
    pockets
  4. Press the pocket openings on Front Panels folding 1cm twice towards the wrong side of the fabric.
    front-panels
  5. Place pocket lining along the pocket opening of Front Panel,  wrong sides together.  Stitch pocket opening along the fold.
    IMG_4642
  6. The front panels should now look like the picture below from the right side of fabric.  Staystitch along the waistline to stabilize waist and pockets in place.
    pocket-sewn

    FRONT FLY ZIPPER
  7. Place the Fly Facing straight side on the Left Front panel,  right sides together and stitch from top to bottom of facing.   For ladies, stitch Fly Facing on the Right Front panel.
    Press facing open and understitch.
    fly-facingIMG_4651
  8. Place zipper face down on the wrong side of Right Front panel (or Left Front panel for a ladies garment).    Stitch along the edge.
    IMG_4652
  9. Press  Fly Shield folded in half if not already done so, and place edge side over zipper.  Stitch along the edge.
    IMG_4653
  10. Open Fly Shield and zipper away from garment, press and topstitch.
    IMG_4654
  11. Place Left Front panel over the Right Front panel right sides together, pin and stitch along crotch from bottom of zipper to bottom of crotch.  Make sure zipper fly and shield are out of the way.
    crotch-line
  12. Close zipper and align zipper front to the Fly Facing ensuring that when you open the front panels the zipper will be covered by front fly.  Pin the remaining side of zipper to Fly Facing and stitch it in place.
    front-fly
  13. Pin Fly Facing flat to front panel and stitch along the curve.
    IMG_4658front-fly-2
    Now it’s starting to look more like a pair of shorts!

    FRONT and BACK
  14. Place the Left Back panel over the Right Back panel right side of fabric together and  stitch along the crotch line.
    IMG_4660
  15. Place front and back right side of fabric together, aligning the inseam so that crotch lines meet.
    front-back
  16. Press open crotch seam and topstitch starting from just below the front fly stitch all the way along the back.
    crotch-line-2
  17. Stitch along side seams.

    WAISTBAND
  18. If you’re adding belt tabs, secure the tabs in place onto the waistline of assemble shorts before adding the waistline.
    IMG_4670  IMG_4671
  19. Press the waistband folded in half if not already done so.   Then press again 1cm on each side.  Place waistband along the waist line of shorts right sides together and stitch along edges.
    IMG_4672
  20. Open waistband away from garment and press. Fold over and topstitch waistband closed all around.
    waist
  21. Fold belt tabs over and secure to top of waistband.
    belt-tabs
  22. Install a fastening of your choice on waistband just above the zipper.
  23. Hem to desired length.
    You’re done!
    boys-shorts
    back
    boys-shorts-side

 

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